Upcycling old gold

Gold and gemstones hold real value — financially and emotionally. Many people choose to reuse existing materials because it’s an ecologically and ethically responsible option than buying everything new

Because every piece of old jewellery is different, upcycling works best when we first assess what can safely be reused and what will deliver the highest quality result. Below you’ll find a clear overview of how the process works at Gallery 79, what to expect, and when a refinery route is the better option.

Quick reassurance (before we start)

• Nothing is melted or altered without your approval.

• You’ll receive a written offer before any processing begins.

• If reuse isn’t safe or cost-effective, I’ll tell you upfront.

• Any leftover gold remains yours, and we’ll discuss the best way to return it,

How does upcycling work at Gallery 79?

If you’re considering reusing old gold for a new jewellery design, please mention this at the start of your enquiry. Knowing the type, quality and approximate amount of gold helps me assess what is realistically possible for your project — and whether it can be achieved within your budget.

Before I can finalise any offer, the old jewellery must be inspected and assessed. At Gallery 79, the upcycling process follows these steps:

1) Gold inspection & testing

Your gold is tested and assessed for:

• carat value

• gross weight and usable weight

• suitability for remelting and reworking

We also check for elements that can reduce the reliability of remelting, such as mixed alloys, solder, coatings, colour inconsistency, or porosity. These factors aren’t “wrong” — they simply determine which processing route is most appropriate for achieving a high-quality final piece.

Only pieces with a strong enough chance of producing stable, durable gold are considered for in-house remelting.

2) Choosing the right processing route

Based on the inspection results, we’ll choose the most reliable option for your project:

Option A — Remelting & reworking in-house

This route is best when the gold is consistent and suitable for remelting. It involves sorting and cleaning the material, melting it, removing impurities, and preparing the gold into the correct form for fabrication.

Important to know: old jewellery can contain structural weaknesses or hidden issues (for example micro-cracks, porosity, or a high solder content). If these issues appear during remelting and affect quality, the process will be stopped to protect the final result.

In that case, your material will be returned to you in its melted form, and we can discuss switching to the refinery route if you’d like.

Also keep in mind: in-house remelting requires additional labour, which will be reflected in the offer.

Option B — Refinery processing first

If the gold quality is uncertain or unsuitable for direct reuse, the raw material can be sent to a refinery for processing (Argentor Essayeurs NV, Antwerp. Refinery processing results in clean, consistent gold, and is often the most reliable route when materials are mixed, plated, or structurally unstable.

After refinement (and after subtraction of processing costs), the refined gold value can be used to help finance your project (purchase new gold).

You can go to Argentor yourself or ask us to handle it and include it in the project. 

3) Additional gold (if needed)

If your design requires more gold than what can safely be reused, additional gold may need to be purchased. This will be clearly included in the offer — with no surprises.

What gold is most suitable for in-house reuse?

To maximise the chance of a successful remelt and a high-quality final jewel, Gallery 79 primarily considers:

• 18 karat yellow gold

• solid / massive pieces preferred

• minimum 10g total available

• fine chains are typically not reused (they are often alloy-inconsistent and difficult to remelt reliably)

Materials that are usually not suitable for in-house remelting

For quality and safety reasons, the following materials are generally not reused in-house:

• white gold

• silver of unknown origin

• fine chains

• pieces with a high risk of contamination (for example rhodium plating, unknown alloys, or unfavourable metal-to-solder ratios)

These materials increase the chance of porosity, brittleness, inconsistent colour, and unreliable results. In most cases, they are better handled through the refinery route — and I’ll advise you clearly on what makes most sense.

Reusing stones and gemstones

Many gemstones and diamonds can be reused beautifully in a new design — especially when they hold sentimental value.

To reuse stones, they must be removable without significant risk and remain intact. Stones are carefully removed from the old jewellery and inspected for reuse.

If a stone is fragile, heavily worn, or at higher risk of damage, I’ll advise you transparently and suggest safer alternatives — such as as for example using a more protective setting, adjusting the design, or sourcing a similar replacement.

Want to know what’s possible with your gold?

If you’re curious whether your gold is suitable for in-house reuse or refinery processing, bring the pieces to your appointment. I’ll assess them with you and explain your options.